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After our noon-day repast we headed into the Baviannskloof, a long dusty road stretching out for miles. We did hit a couple of sandy bits, and one rider did go down which pointed out the potential problem of excess complications; to wit, the ABS brakes.

While the ABS can be turned off on the GS models, our hosts had asked us to ride with the ABS engaged. After the sand incident the bike was not really damaged but the right handlebar had taken quite a whack and something had gone awry in the ABS electronics, leaving the bike with very limited braking ability.

Fortunately we did not have too much further to go before getting to our campsite, and once there a mechanic fiddled the system until it thought it was on the standard non-ABS setting. If I were to buy one of these Adventures, I would probably get it without ABS as I would surely fall down on occasion. I like ABS-equipped machines, but not in the rough and tumble of a GS world.

The valley was a microcosm of the pre-motorized world, and I could imagine ox carts trundling along a hundred years ago. The rough and ready farms were miles apart, inhabited by those who value solitude. Several places offered rustic accommodations for the back-country travellers, by car or bicycle.

That night, I was prepared to rough it in camp. Rolling along the un-trafficked track we saw a small BMW rondel on a fence post, an arrow pointing off to the right. Following a sandy track for half a mile, we came to a wide field and a dozen large tents. Each tent had big beds and heaters inside, with hot showers and set up 50 yards away. Elegant and comfy.

Dinner that evening was at the Sederkloof Lodge (sederkloof.co.za); we were greeted with a long table lit with candles, and huge platters of roasted game, eventually washed down with many bottles of red wine. After dinner we sat around a huge bonfire and told lies about our exploits.

In the morning, at breakfast, we were told that today’s ride would be somewhat more difficult than yesterday’s, and if anybody wished to go back the way we had come, no stigma would be attached. Two fellows opted for that choice. That is a tough call, but sensible riders understand their limits, and this was becoming a tough ride.

We should add that BMW had sited a helicopter at the Sederkloof, along with a doctor and a medic…just in case. Communication, if necessary, would be via satellite phones.
We rolled off, beginning the day with a number of crossings of the same river; lots of crossing, ranging from a foot of water over a concrete causeway to at least two feet coursing over loose stones for a good 50 yards. Fortunately the airbox sits quite high under the gas tank, and such riverine wanderings are doable.

Our photographer had great fun setting up the shots. This is when the weight of the Adventure is a distinct disadvantage. As the front wheel poked about among the unseen rocks, the riders kept the handlebars reasonably straight, hoping that they would not embarrass themselves in front of their colleagues. None did.

Leaving the river valley we began to climb the mountain, a nadgery bit indeed. Here the rain had washed the dirt off, exposing smooth rock. The Adventure had to be carefully guided into the right paths, and with the tires running about 18 psi, they clung handily to the surfaces. This was a variation on trails riding, and it is quite surprising how deftly the Adventure handles such travails.

The top of the mountain was flat, a mesa of sorts, providing a fast dirt road with long view, the ideal of world-travellers. By that time the dozen bikes were spread out over several miles, so there was no clutter or eating of dust.

In the distance we could see a green, fertile valley, fed by the Gamtoos River, but first we had to tip-toe our way down the steep-sided mountain, reversing the skills, so to speak, we had used to come up.

We had a late lunch in the little town of Patensie. It really was a splendid little adventure, and served to showcase all the attributes of the motorcycle; I commend BMW for the good sense to give us a real ride on these machines.

Great ride, great bike. Base price for the Adventure is about $16,000, but a lot of options are there to tempt the buyer.